Winter Garden Tips for the Gunnison Valley

During the cold winter months, the garden may be the farthest thing from one’s mind.  Understandably, frigid temperatures and biting winds may lessen a gardener’s motivation considerably.  Fortunately, there aren’t many tasks that the sleeping garden requires this time of year.  Instead of thinking about what actions should be taken in the garden, a Gunnison County gardener might better focus on what should be avoided during the winter in order to ensure that the garden emerges healthy in the spring.  The following are ideas and suggestions for what should and should not be done in the winter garden… 

• Avoid using de-icing salts near lawns, vegetable gardens and flower beds.  Salts can accumulate and damage plant roots and can also be corrosive to concrete, brick and stone surfaces.  Consider using sand, cat litter, sawdust or other non-chemical products when possible.
• If using de-icing salts can’t be avoided, remember that in very cold weather, ice melting salts are ineffective.  The two most commonly used and inexpensive materials used for ice melting are sodium chloride (NaCl) and calcium chloride (CaCl).  NaCl will melt ice until temperatures drop below approximately 15F and CaCl will be effective to approximately 5F.  Urea (nitrogen), potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, and calcium magnesium acetate are also used as ice melting products, but these become ineffective at temperatures below approximately 15-20F.  Because plants need small amounts of magnesium and calcium, using small amounts of ice-melting products made with these chemicals will not be as harmful as using sodium-chloride based products.
• In order to avoid injuring plants, the Parks Maintenance Division of the U.S. Department of Interior considers the maximum safe application of ice melting salts to be one-half pound of salt per square yard per winter.
• When gardening during the warmer months, think ahead to the winter.  To prevent salt damage, avoid planting in areas that will need to be heavily salted during the winter months.  Plan where snow will be piled in order to avoid piling snow that may have salts in it on your lawn or planting areas.  Be aware of where salt-laden runoff water may go on your property and take steps to prevent runoff from affecting planted areas or waterways on you property.
• Over application of ice melting products can have potential negative impacts on surface and ground water – use them wisely and sparingly.  In order to reduce the amount of de-icing salts used, remove snow before applying ice melting products and only use de-icing products on remaining patches of ice.
• If salt damage to plants has occurred, it will become evident in the spring and summer as browning of foliage, stunting of growth and die-back occurs.  If you suspect salt damage, have a soil test done.  Soil tests may indicate how to correct soils with high salt content – flushing with water or adding a small amount of gypsum to soil may aid in reducing salt levels.
• Ice melting products are best applied prior to ice formation. These products work by attracting moisture and forming a chemical solution with water that initiates melting.  So, applying before or during a snow event initiates the formation of the solution that will prevent ice formation.  Federal Highway Administration research has shown that if temperatures are near the threshold where salts become ineffective at melting ice, it can be helpful to add water to ice-melting products (at a ratio of 30% salts and 70% water) to create a liquid solution before applying.
• Unless you had insect or disease problems, leave perennials and ornamental grasses uncut until spring in order to capture winter snow and act as an insulating blanket.  The remaining seeds and fruits will be a good winter food source for birds and other wildlife that remain in the Gunnison Valley during the winter months.
• Herbaceous perennial beds should be covered with 2-3” of bark mulch or pine needles for winter protection.  Gunnison Gold compost would be a great mulch/topdressing for perennial beds for protecting perennials during the winter.   Mulch will help the soil to retain moisture and maintain a more even soil temperature during freeze-thaw cycles.
• Gravel mulch can be useful in Xeriscape flower beds where there is not as much of a need for the moisture retention offered by organic mulches.  Gravel mulches or pebbles can absorb heat during sunny winter days and keep roots warmer than they would be otherwise.
• For vegetable gardens, it’s best to remove plant debris from last growing season.  Pests and diseases are likely to over-winter in vegetable gardens.  If you’ve had insect or disease problems in your vegetable garden, a late fall or early winter tilling or turning of the soil in vegetable garden beds can help control insects because it exposes over-wintering insects to winter conditions.
• Consider using rose collars around the base of non-native rose bushes.  Collars can be filled with 8-10” of mulch to protect the roots of the plant and maintain soil moisture and a more even soil temperature during freeze & thaw cycles
• Make sure that plants receive a deep watering in the fall before temperatures begin to drop and the soil begins to freeze.  Roots do not go into dormancy as quickly as above-ground parts of plants, so having moisture available to roots during winter is important.  Also, moist soils hold more heat than dry soils, so frost penetration will be deeper and soil temperatures colder in soil that has been allowed to dry out. 
• Winter food shortages can force rodents and other small animals to feed on bark, roots, twigs, flower buds and foliage of garden plants.  Small trees can be protected from rodents and other small animals that might eat the bark at their bases by placing a cylinder of ¼” wire mesh or plastic tree guards around the trunk to a height of 24” above the anticipated snow line. Rodent repellants that render the taste and smell of plants undesirable are commercially available.   
• Deer often seek out garden plants as food sources in the winter.  Choosing plants that are unpalatable to deer will prevent deer damage in the garden.  Planting more susceptible plant species near the home, where deer are less likely to venture, may prevent some deer browsing damage.   Netting or fencing garden beds, small trees and shrubs may help to discourage deer browsing.  Commercially available deer repellants that can be sprayed on or around plants may be somewhat effective in reducing browsing.  A homemade spray of 20% whole eggs and 80% water has been found to be an effective deer repellant if reapplied every 30 days.
• Aspen trees (and other smooth & thin bark trees in our area, such as ash and maple) are extremely prone to frost cracking and sunscald in the spring and fall as freezing nighttime temperatures and intense sun during daylight hours cause burning, expansion and contraction of tissues, especially on the south and west sides of trunks.  Consider wrapping the trunks of younger thin & smooth barked trees with tree wrap to protect them from frost cracking and sunscald. Tree wrap will reflect the sun and keep the bark at a more constant temperature.  Tree wrap should be removed in the late spring, as tree wrap left on during the   growing season will trap moisture and provide habitat for insect pests and disease pathogens.
• Avoid pruning of woody plants until next growing season if possible – internal tissues exposed by pruning cuts may be damaged by extremely low temperatures.  If it is necessary to prune broken branches during the fall or winter, leave a stub a few inches long, which can be pruned back to the branch collar in the spring.
• Consider staking newly planted trees that might be susceptible to damage from wind and snow loads this winter.  Be sure to use staking material that will not damage the bark of trees by rubbing during windy days.
• Newly planted marginally hardy trees and shrubs can be protected from intense sun and drying winds during their first couple of winters by wrapping or screening them with burlap.  Until established, pine trees and other evergreens are especially susceptible to winter desiccation on windy and sunny winter days, as more moisture is lost through their needles than is absorbed by the roots.  Browning or bleached needles, often on the south or windward side of a tree may indicate that desiccation is occurring.
• As temperatures begin to warm and the ground begins to thaw in the spring (or if we get any warm spells when the temperature exceeds 40 degrees and the ground begins to thaw during the winter) monitor the water needs of the plants in your garden.  If possible, don’t wait until the irrigation ditches are turned back on to give trees and shrubs a deep watering – they will likely be drought-stressed after a long, dry winter.
• Shrubs and trees that are likely to be damaged by heavy snow loads can be protected by wrapping them with flexible twine or bicycle tire inner tubes.  The bundled branches of trees and shrubs will help support one another. 
• Branches of trees and shrubs that have been badly bent by snow and ice can sometimes be straightened by staking or tying (with a non-chafing material like flexible twine or bicycle tire inner tubes) into place during the next growing season.  Stakes and twine should be removed as soon as the stem or branch remains upright on its own again.
• Shaking or knocking snow and ice from branches can damage trees and shrubs. Rather than trying to remove snow and ice, it is best just to let snow and ice melt from the plant.  If you’re concerned about branch breakage, newly fallen snow may be gently swept from drooping boughs, using gentle upward strokes to loosen the snow.
• As temperatures drop, be sure to remove any garden chemicals that might freeze from sheds and move them to areas where their storage temperature will not fall below 40F.  Frozen liquids could expand enough to break containers, and may spread concentrated chemicals within reach of children or pets.
• Winterize faucets, sprinklers, and hoses.  Underground sprinkler systems should be blown out with an air compressor in fall, hoses should be completely emptied of water and outdoor faucets should be drained or insulated with Styrofoam covers to prevent freezing pipes.

 

 

Fall Gardening Tips

The onset of hard morning frosts and the fading of brilliant autumn leaves in the Gunnison Valley may diminish a gardener’s enthusiasm for the final tasks of the growing season.  The excitement we felt at witnessing the first blooming flowers of spring and participating in the fullness of the summer garden may be giving way to a desire to begin indoor pursuits.  However, putting on your hat and gloves and getting out into the crisp fall air to finish up the season’s work will reap benefits when winter’s cold diminishes and spring emerges once again.  The following are some ideas and jobs to consider as winter approaches…

In General:

• Plants need less water when going into the dormant season.  Excess water in the fall stimulates new growth which will not be hardened off properly for the winter and will be more susceptible to winter kill.  Soak your plants deeply when you do water, but don’t water as often.  Give all turf, trees and perennial beds a deep watering before the ground freezes.   Use a soil probe or trowel to dig down into the soil in order determine plants’ water needs.
• Fall is a great time to build a compost bin if you don’t already have one.  Simple compost bins can be constructed very inexpensively.  Add leaves and non-diseased plant material (except weeds that have gone to seed) removed from flower beds to your compost pile.   In addition to creating a wonderful organic top dressing for your flower beds, the composting process kills many of the fungi and insects that might otherwise over-winter on plant material. 
• Interesting dried seed heads, flowers and stems cut from perennial beds can be used to make beautiful outdoor arrangements.  Collect pine cones, dried seed heads and other things used to make holiday ornaments before they’re covered by snow.
• Late fall planting is not recommended in the Gunnison Valley – plants don’t have enough time to get established before the ground freezes.  It’s best to plant trees, shrubs and perennials in late spring or early summer and bulbs in the late summer or early fall
• If you haven’t had a soil test performed on your property, consider doing it this fall.  The results will help to determine the best course of action for fertilizing as you begin to plan for next season.  Do-it-yourself soil test  kits can be purchased at garden centers, or the Extension Office can send soil samples to a lab for testing.
• Prepare your irrigation system for winter (including hoses!) by expelling all water from the system.
• This winter, plan to avoid using de-icing salts near lawns, vegetable gardens and flower beds.  Salts can accumulate and damage plant roots.  Consider using sand or sawdust.  If using de-icing salts is necessary, magnesium chloride-based products tend to be less harmful to plants than other de-icing salts.
• As temperatures drop, be sure to remove any garden chemicals that might freeze from sheds and move them to areas where their storage temperature will not fall below 40F.  Frozen liquids could expand enough to break containers, and may spread concentrated chemicals within reach of children or pets.
• Fall is a great time to do a thorough weeding in your garden to prevent annual weeds from going to seed and perennial weeds from over-wintering.
• Clean and oil garden tools before putting them away for the winter

Lawns:

• Fall is a great time to core aerate the lawn.  It will relieve compaction, allow more  oxygen to reach the root zone of the lawn, help reduce fungal problems and improve the overall health of turf.  Consider using an organic top dressing (such as Gunnison Gold compost) on the lawn after aerating, working it into the holes created by aerating.
• Fall is a good time to renovate and re-seed the lawn.  Eliminate weeds, amend the soil and plant grass seed in areas that need renovation.  Water seeded areas thoroughly after planting and keep moist as long as the ground isn’t frozen.
• Rake leaves from lawn areas.  Leaves left on lawn will mat and prevent oxygen and moisture from reaching grass.  Use leaves as brown material on your compost pile.
• Turf areas should receive a late season fertilization with a quick release nitrogen fertilizer, such as ammonium sulfate.  Even though top growth has slowed, the roots of cool season turf grasses are still quite active in   Autumn.  Fall fertilization will help lawns green up more quickly next spring without the rapid flush of new growth that often happens after early season fertilization.  Soils in our area naturally tend to have high levels of phosphorous and potassium, so addition of fertilizers with these elements is often not necessary.

 Flower Beds:

• Herbaceous perennials can be cut back, given a deep   watering and covered with 2-3” of bark mulch or pine needles for winter protection.  Gunnison Gold compost would also be a great  winter topdressing for perennial beds.  Mulch will help the soil to retain moisture and  maintain a more even soil temperature during freeze-thaw cycles.
• Leaving (non-diseased or insect-infested) dried plant material in flower beds can be good for winter interest and protection.  Remaining dried foliage and stems acts as a sort of “snow fence” by capturing and storing snow that will keep the ground moist during  periods of snow melt. 
• Work screened compost gently into the soil in flower beds, if possible to a depth of at least 2”.  Be careful not to damage the roots of perennials.
• In a cold climate like ours, late fall is too late to divide perennials.  Plants should be given enough time to get established before the ground freezes after dividing.  Wait until spring when plants begin active growth or late summer as growth slows to divide perennials.
• If planting bulbs in the late fall, plant a bit more deeply than usually recommended to give bulbs more time to get established before the ground freezes to the depth at which they’re planted.
• Fall is a good time to plant wildflower seeds.  Seeds planted in the fall will undergo the necessary stratification during cold winter temperatures and will emerge from dormancy as melting spring snow gives way to warmer temperatures.
• Collect seeds from your garden to store for next year or to share with friends.  Dry seeds thoroughly and store them in breathable envelopes in your refrigerator.

 Trees & Shrubs:

• Consider using rose collars around the base of non-native rose bushes.  Collars can be filled with 8-10” of mulch to protect the roots of the plant and maintain soil moisture and a more even soil temperature during freeze & thaw cycles
• Aspen trees (and other smooth & thin barked trees in our area, such as ash and maple) are extremely prone to frost cracking in the spring and fall as freezing nighttime temperatures and warm daytime temperatures cause  expansion and contraction of tissues, especially on the south and west sides of trunks.  Consider wrapping the trunks of younger thin & smooth barked trees with tree wrap to protect them from frost cracking and sunscald.  Tree wrap should be removed in the late spring.
• Avoid pruning woody plants until next growing season if possible.  Internal tissues exposed by pruning cuts may be damaged by low temperatures.  If it is necessary to prune broken branches during the fall or winter, leave a stub a few inches long, which can be pruned back to the branch collar in the spring.
• Consider staking newly planted trees that might be susceptible to damage from wind and snow loads this winter.  Be sure to use staking material that will not damage the bark of trees by rubbing during windy days.
• Newly planted, marginally hardy trees and shrubs can be protected during their first couple of winters by wrapping them in burlap.

 Vegetable Gardens:

After harvesting, clean out all dried plant material in vegetable gardens.  Insect pests tend to over winter on the leaves of many vegetable plants.  Consider planting a cover crop such as annual vetch, clover, or rye in your vegetable garden.  Cover crops prevent soil erosion, add organic material to the soil when plowed under in the spring, and those in the legume family add nitrogen to the soil. 

Work screened compost into the soil in vegetable beds as deeply as possible

• Late fall tilling or turning of the soil in vegetable garden beds can help control insects because it exposes over-wintering insects to winter conditions

Houseplants:

• When bringing houseplants and non-hardy container plants indoors for the winter, be sure to clean soil off of the outside of pots, remove dead foliage, and treat for insects as necessary in order to avoid bringing unwanted pests into your home or greenhouse.  Be vigilant for pests on these plants as indoor conditions are often conducive to outbreaks of insects brought in from the outdoors. 
• While plants will usually adjust to indoor conditions, they may be unattractive for a few months. To lessen this response next year, begin to lower the light intensity your plants are receiving outdoors by gradually moving them to a more shady location. Ideally, you would want to begin this acclimation about one month before you will move them indoors.

Garden Tips for the Week of September 6-12

How much should I water my lawn this week? 

For most homeowners, attention to irrigation efficiency has the greatest potential for water conservation.  In the typical home yard, extra attention to irrigation system design, maintenance, and management could reduce water use by 20-50%!  Using locally calculated evapo-transpiration (ET) rates to determine how much water to apply to your lawn will help you conserve water. 

The evapotranspiration rate for the seven day period between August 30- September 5 was 1.3 inches, calculated for cool season turfgrass in Gunnison.  During this time period, Gunnison received .12 inches of precipitation.  So, watering 1.18 inches will replace the amount of moisture that has been lost through plant transpiration and evaporation from soil during the past week and needs to be replaced to maintain a healthy lawn. 

 This is meant to be a general guide to determining your lawn’s irrigation needs.  Please note that micro-climates in your yard and various grass species in your lawn will have considerable effect on your lawn’s actual water needs, so be sure to check soil moisture to a depth of 4-8” with a garden trowel or screwdriver to determine if the root zone of your grass is sufficiently moist.

How do I figure out how long to water my lawn in order to apply the correct amount of water?  Visit this link: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/264-Minute2Inch.html

For more about conserving water through efficient irrigation scheduling, visit: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/265-Scheduling.html

For assistance in establishing an efficient irrigation schedule for your lawn, contact the CSU Extension Office in Gunnison County at 641-1260. 

 Getting Ready to Cut Firewood?

To date, Gunnison County’s forests have dodged much of the damage caused by Mountain Pine Beetle in other parts of the state.  However, entomologists warn that moving firewood from affected areas may transport these destructive insects to areas they had not previously impacted.  Learning to recognize the signs of potential Mountain Pine Beetle infested trees in areas where you may be cutting firewood can minimize the chance that you’ll bring these insects back to your own garden and the forests that may surround it.  Check out this CSU Extension Fact Sheet to learn how to recognize the Mountain Pine Beetle and the symptoms it causes in trees: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05528.html

Fall Tips for Flower Beds

 Herbaceous perennials can be cut back, given a deep watering and covered with 2-3” of bark mulch or pine needles for winter protection.  Gunnison Gold compost would also be a great  winter topdressing for perennial beds.  Mulch will help the soil to retain moisture and maintain a more even soil temperature during freeze-thaw cycles.

Leaving (non-diseased or insect-infested) dried plant material in flower beds can be good for winter interest and protection.  Remaining dried foliage and stems acts as a sort of “snow fence” by capturing and storing snow that will keep the ground moist during  periods of snow melt. 

Work screened compost gently into the soil in flower beds, if possible to a depth of at least 2”.  Be careful not to damage the roots of perennials.

 In a cold climate like ours, late fall is too late to divide perennials.  Plants should be given enough time to get established before the ground freezes after dividing.  Wait until spring when plants begin active growth or late summer as growth slows to divide perennials.

If planting bulbs in the late fall, plant a bit more deeply than usually recommended to give bulbs more time to get established before the ground freezes to the depth at which they’re planted.

Fall is a good time to plant wildflower seeds.  Seeds planted in the fall will undergo the necessary stratification during cold winter temperatures and will emerge from dormancy as melting spring snow gives way to warmer temperatures.

Collect seeds from your garden to store for next year or to share with friends.  Dry seeds thoroughly and store them in breathable envelopes in your refrigerator.

Gardening Tips for the Week of August 29- September 5

 How much should I water my lawn this week? 

For most homeowners, attention to irrigation efficiency has the greatest potential for water conservation.  In the typical home yard, extra attention to irrigation system design, maintenance, and management could reduce water use by 20-50%!  Using locally calculated evapo-transpiration (ET) rates to determine how much water to apply to your lawn will help you conserve water. 

The evapotranspiration rate for the seven day period between August 23-29 was 1.27 inches, calculated for cool season turfgrass in Gunnison.  During this time period, Gunnison received .11 inches of precipitation.  So, watering 1.16 inches will replace the amount of moisture that has been lost through plant transpiration and evaporation from soil during the past week and needs to be replaced to maintain a healthy lawn. 

This is meant to be a general guide to determining your lawn’s irrigation needs.  Please note that micro-climates in your yard and various grass species in your lawn will have considerable effect on your lawn’s actual water needs, so be sure to check soil moisture to a depth of 4-8” with a garden trowel or screwdriver to determine if the root zone of your grass is sufficiently moist.

How do I figure out how long to water my lawn in order to apply the correct amount of water?  Visit this link: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/264-Minute2Inch.html

For more about conserving water through efficient irrigation scheduling, visit: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/265-Scheduling.html

For assistance in establishing an efficient irrigation schedule for your lawn, contact the CSU Extension Office in Gunnison County at 641-1260. 

 Tips for Fall Lawn Care

•  Fall is a great time to core aerate the lawn.  It will relieve compaction, allow more  oxygen to reach the root zone of the lawn, help reduce fungal problems and improve the overall health of turf.  Consider using an organic top dressing (such as Gunnison Gold compost) on the lawn after aerating, working it into the holes created by aerating.
• Fall is a good time to renovate and re-seed the lawn.  Eliminate weeds, amend the soil and plant grass seed in areas that need renovation.  Water seeded areas thoroughly after planting and keep moist as long as the ground isn’t frozen.
• Rake leaves from lawn areas.  Leaves left on lawn will mat and prevent oxygen and moisture from reaching grass.  Use leaves as brown material on your compost pile.
• Turf areas should receive a late season fertilization with a quick release nitrogen fertilizer, such as ammonium sulfate.  Even though top growth has slowed, the roots of cool season turf grasses are still quite active in Autumn.  Fall fertilization will help lawns green up more quickly next spring without the rapid flush of new growth that often happens after early season fertilization.  Soils in our area naturally tend to have high levels of phosphorous and potassium, so addition of fertilizers with these elements is often not necessary.

Gardening Tips for the Week of August 23-29

How Does Your Garden Grow?

Hay producers in Gunnison County are reporting that harvests are significantly smaller than in past years and there remains some speculation about the exact cause.  Could the cool, wet spring and early summer weather be the culprit?  Did the early summer hailstorm Gunnison experienced stunt the growth of plants? Or how about the dry weather we have had later on in the summer?  Though a combination of all of these factors could certainly affect harvests, climate data also reveals that Gunnison has had about 20% fewer Growing Degree Days than at the same time last year.  Wikipedia explains the concept of Growing Degree Days as follows: 

 “In the absence of extreme conditions such as unseasonal drought or disease, plants grow in a cumulative stepwise manner which is strongly influenced by the ambient temperature. Growing degree days take aspects of local weather into account and allow gardeners to predict the plants’ pace toward maturity.  Growing degrees is defined as the number of temperature degrees above a certain threshold base temperature (at the Extension Office we use 50 degrees Fahrenheit).  The base temperature is that temperature below which plant growth is zero. Growing degrees are calculated each day as maximum temperature minus the minimum temperature divided by 2 (or the mean temperature), minus the base temperature. Growing Degree Days are accumulated by adding each day’s Growing degree contribution as the season progresses.” 

 On August 24, Gunnison had accumulated 764 Growing Degree Days during the growing season.  On August 24 of 2008, 955 Growing Degree Days had been recorded. 

Because the growth of plants and the completion of their life stages (seed germination, vegetative growth, flowering and seed production) depend on the accumulation of specific quantities of heat, calculation of Growing Degree Days can be a useful tool when trying to predict how long crops will take to reach the stage at which they can be harvested.

All of this begs the question: How has the lower number of Growing Degree Days affected vegetable gardens in Gunnison County?  Have you noticed differences in the amount of vegetables you have harvested from your garden this year?  Have your cool season vegetables (like broccoli, peas, spinach, onions, garlic, root crops, etc.) performed better than they usually do?  Have your warm season crops (tomatoes, zucchini, potatoes, etc.) languished in comparison to last year? 

Gardeners, please share your experiences and observations!  Post observations and insights from your own garden by clicking on the “Add Comment” button below.   

 “Fallscaping”

August gardeners lament the passing of colorful June and July gardens, but we can extend our garden season into autumn and now is the time to start.  Read this article written by Kathy Roth, a Master Gardener in Larimer County” to learn more about extending your garden’s beauty well into the fall and winter: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/columngw/gr080802.html

 How much should I water my lawn this week? 

For most homeowners, attention to irrigation efficiency has the greatest potential for water conservation.  In the typical home yard, extra attention to irrigation system design, maintenance, and management could reduce water use by 20-50%!  Using locally calculated evapo-transpiration (ET) rates to determine how much water to apply to your lawn will help you conserve water. 

The evapotranspiration rate for the seven day period between August 16-22 1.5 inches, calculated for cool season turfgrass in Gunnison.  During this time period, Gunnison received no precipitation.  So, watering 1.5 inches will replace the amount of moisture that has been lost through plant transpiration and evaporation from soil during the past week and needs to be replaced to maintain a healthy lawn. 

This is meant to be a general guide to determining your lawn’s irrigation needs.  Please note that micro-climates in your yard and various grass species in your lawn will have considerable effect on your lawn’s actual water needs, so be sure to check soil moisture to a depth of 4-8” with a garden trowel or screwdriver to determine if the root zone of your grass is sufficiently moist.

How do I figure out how long to water my lawn in order to apply the correct amount of water?  Visit this link: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/264-Minute2Inch.html

For more about conserving water through efficient irrigation scheduling, visit: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/265-Scheduling.html

For assistance in establishing an efficient irrigation schedule for your lawn, contact the CSU Extension Office in Gunnison County at 641-1260.

Gardening Tips for the Week of August 16-22

Sustainability Research Garden Tour, August 20 from Noon-1PM at the Gunnison County Fairgrounds.  Free. 

Come take a tour of this newly-planted garden at the Gunnison County Fairgrounds that is focused on testing fruit, vegetable and oil seed crops that, though not commonly grown in Gunnison County, may have good potential for food and fuel production in our cold climate and short growing season.  You’ll learn about current research in bio-fuel production, fruit crop production in other cold climates of the world, and you may even come away with some ideas for using your garden to meet your own sustainability goals.

 Saving Seed

Home Gardeners were perpetuating and improving plant varieties through seed selection before there were commercial seed producers. As the end of the growing season begins to loom on the horizon, you may be considering saving seeds from your vegetable and flower gardens to re-plant next year.  As you think about collecting and saving seed, it’s important to know a bit about the pollination and parentage of the plants you would like to save seed from.  This CSU Extension Fact Sheet gives good information on things to consider to be sure good results are yielded from your seed-saving efforts:  http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07602.html

How much should I water my lawn this week? 

For most homeowners, attention to irrigation efficiency has the greatest potential for water conservation.  In the typical home yard, extra attention to irrigation system design, maintenance, and management could reduce water use by 20-50%!  Using locally calculated evapo-transpiration (ET) rates to determine how much water to apply to your lawn will help you conserve water. 

The evapotranspiration rate for the seven day period between August 9-15 was 1.29 inches, calculated for cool season turfgrass in Gunnison.  During this time period, Gunnison received .35 inches of precipitation.  So, watering .94 inches will replace the amount of moisture that has been lost through plant transpiration and evaporation from soil during the past week and needs to be replaced to maintain a healthy lawn. 

This is meant to be a general guide to determining your lawn’s irrigation needs.  Please note that micro-climates in your yard and various grass species in your lawn will have considerable effect on your lawn’s actual water needs, so be sure to check soil moisture to a depth of 4-8” with a garden trowel or screwdriver to determine if the root zone of your grass is sufficiently moist.

How do I figure out how long to water my lawn in order to apply the correct amount of water?  Visit this link: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/264-Minute2Inch.html

For more about conserving water through efficient irrigation scheduling, visit: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/265-Scheduling.html

For assistance in establishing an efficient irrigation schedule for your lawn, contact the CSU Extension Office in Gunnison County at 641-1260.

Gardening Tips for the Week of August 9-15

Frost Protection & Extending the Growing Season

Gunnison received its first “late season” frost on August 9^th, putting an end to the growing season of many warm season crops that were left unprotected.  Though our growing season in Gunnison County is often very short, there are many techniques for protecting tender crops from frost and extending the growing season.  The CSU Extension Garden Notes publication gives some great tips for frost protection and extending the growing season that may help you to continue to garden successfully well into the fall (and perhaps even into the winter!)http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/722.pdf

Black Vine Weevil

You may have recently noticed widespread notching on the leaf margins of lilacs and other shrubs in Gunnison County that is caused by the Black Vine Weevil and other root weevils.  Though these insects’ feeding is evident on plants throughout the valley, it usually does not do enough damage to plants to warrant much concern.  This insect can become a nuisance, however, if populations begin to migrate into homes.  If you have been noticing root weevils invading your home, this CSU Extension Fact Sheet may be helpful as you consider what, if anything, to do to control these uninvited guests: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05551.html

Sustainability Research Garden Tour, August 20 from Noon-1PM at the Gunnison County Fairgrounds.  Free. 

Come take a tour of this newly-planted garden at the Gunnison County Fairgrounds that is focused on testing fruit, vegetable and oil seed crops that, though not commonly grown in Gunnison County, may have good potential for food and fuel production in our cold climate and short growing season.  You’ll learn about current research in bio-fuel production, fruit crop production in other cold climates of the world, and you may even come away with some ideas for using your garden to meet your own sustainability goals.

How much should I water my lawn this week? 

For most homeowners, attention to irrigation efficiency has the greatest potential for water conservation.  In the typical home yard, extra attention to irrigation system design, maintenance, and management could reduce water use by 20-50%!  Using locally calculated evapo-transpiration (ET) rates to determine how much water to apply to your lawn will help you conserve water. 

The evapotranspiration rate for the seven day period between August 2-8 was 1.34 inches, calculated for cool season turfgrass in Gunnison.  During this time period, Gunnison received .01 inches of precipitation.  So, watering 1.33 inches will replace the amount of moisture that has been lost through plant transpiration and evaporation from soil during the past week and needs to be replaced to maintain a healthy lawn. 

This is meant to be a general guide to determining your lawn’s irrigation needs.  Please note that micro-climates in your yard and various grass species in your lawn will have considerable effect on your lawn’s actual water needs, so be sure to check soil moisture to a depth of 4-8” with a garden trowel or screwdriver to determine if the root zone of your grass is sufficiently moist.

 How do I figure out how long to water my lawn in order to apply the correct amount of water?  Visit this link: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/264-Minute2Inch.html

 For more about conserving water through efficient irrigation scheduling, visit: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/265-Scheduling.html

For assistance in establishing an efficient irrigation schedule for your lawn, contact the CSU Extension Office in Gunnison County at 641-1260.

Gardening Tips for the Week of August 2-8

How much should I water my lawn this week? 

For most homeowners, attention to irrigation efficiency has the greatest potential for water conservation.  In the typical home yard, extra attention to irrigation system design, maintenance, and management could reduce water use by 20-50%!  Using locally calculated evapo-transpiration (ET) rates to determine how much water to apply to your lawn will help you conserve water. 

The evapotranspiration rate for the seven day period between July 26-August 1 was 1.36 inches, calculated for cool season turfgrass in Gunnison.  During this time period, Gunnison received .63 inches of precipitation.  So, watering .73 inches will replace the amount of moisture that has been lost through plant transpiration and evaporation from soil during the past week and needs to be replaced to maintain a healthy lawn. 

 This is meant to be a general guide to determining your lawn’s irrigation needs.  Please note that micro-climates in your yard and various grass species in your lawn will have considerable effect on your lawn’s actual water needs, so be sure to check soil moisture to a depth of 4-8” with a garden trowel or screwdriver to determine if the root zone of your grass is sufficiently moist.

 How do I figure out how long to water my lawn in order to apply the correct amount of water?  Visit this link: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/264-Minute2Inch.html

 For more about conserving water through efficient irrigation scheduling, visit: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/265-Scheduling.html

For assistance in establishing an efficient irrigation schedule for your lawn, contact the CSU Extension Office in Gunnison County at 641-1260. 

 Nuisance Bees and Wasps

 Wasps, Yellowjackets and bees continue to bother Gunnison County gardeners this summer.  If you’re noticing a lot of these insects in your garden and would like know more about which types you may have and whether or not control is warranted, you may find this CSU extension Fact Sheet useful: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05525.html

 Eliminate Grass Clipping Collection

Did you know that One thousand square feet of bluegrass lawn generates about 200 pounds of clippings annually; of which 75 percent or 150 pounds is water?  Letting grass clippings remain on the lawn when you mow will not only eliminate a lot of landfill waste and work, it will also provide benefits to the health of your lawn.  Read this CSU Extension Fact Sheet top learn more: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07007.html

Gardening Tips for the Week of July 26- August 1

Canada Thistle

Canada thistle is currently blooming in Gunnison County, which has prompted many local landowners to call the Extension Office to inquire about the best way to control and eradicate this noxious weed.  This CSU Extension Fact Sheet gives tips on establishing a successful management plan for controlling Canada thistle: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/natres/03108.html

Freezing Vegetables

If your vegetable garden is currently yielding more produce than you can eat, freezing excess vegetables can be a great way to save them for later.  Proper preparation prior to freezing vegetables is important to ensure quality produce later on.  This CSU Extension Fact Sheet offers techniques for freezing many of the vegetables that are currently being harvested from Gunnison County gardens: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/foodnut/09330.html

 How much should I water my lawn this week? 

For most homeowners, attention to irrigation efficiency has the greatest potential for water conservation.  In the typical home yard, extra attention to irrigation system design, maintenance, and management could reduce water use by 20-50%!  Using locally calculated evapo-transpiration (ET) rates to determine how much water to apply to your lawn will help you conserve water. 

The evapotranspiration rate for the seven day period between July 19-25 was 1.77 inches, calculated for cool season turfgrass in Gunnison.  During this time period, Gunnison received .03 inches of precipitation.  So, watering 1.74 inches will replace the amount of moisture that has been lost through plant transpiration and evaporation from soil during the past week and needs to be replaced to maintain a healthy lawn. 

This is meant to be a general guide to determining your lawn’s irrigation needs.  Please note that micro-climates in your yard and various grass species in your lawn will have considerable effect on your lawn’s actual water needs, so be sure to check soil moisture to a depth of 4-8” with a garden trowel or screwdriver to determine if the root zone of your grass is sufficiently moist.

How do I figure out how long to water my lawn in order to apply the correct amount of water?  Visit this link: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/264-Minute2Inch.html

For more about conserving water through efficient irrigation scheduling, visit: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/265-Scheduling.html

For assistance in establishing an efficient irrigation schedule for your lawn, contact the CSU Extension Office in Gunnison County at 641-1260.

Gardening Tips for the Week of July 19-26

Free Workshop on Thursday, July 23:” Insects & Diseases of Vegetable Gardens” .  Presented by Jim Janks, Gunnison County Advanced Master Gardener

Are your onions looking ugly?  Tomatoes growing terribly?  Come learn about the common insects and diseases that often perplex Gunnison County vegetable gardeners, and come away with knowledge that is sure to help you increase the health and productivity of your vegetable garden plants.

This workshop will take place from Noon-1PM at the Fred Field Western Heritage Center (275 South Spruce St.) in Gunnison.  For more information, call 641-1260.

Water Conservation in the Vegetable Garden

In vegetable production, an adequate supply of water during the growing season is directly related to produce quality and yields.  Unlike bluegrass and other landscape plants, vegetables can’t go dormant when the water supply is inadequate. However, there are several techniques that will significantly reduce the water requirements of the home vegetable garden.  This CSU Extension Garden Notes publication gives tips on mulching, soil amendment, watering techniques and recognizing the critical watering periods for various vegetables in order to reduce water use in the vegetable garden: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/716.pdf

How much should I water my lawn this week? 

For most homeowners, attention to irrigation efficiency has the greatest potential for water conservation.  In the typical home yard, extra attention to irrigation system design, maintenance, and management could reduce water use by 20-50%!  Using locally calculated evapo-transpiration (ET) rates to determine how much water to apply to your lawn will help you conserve water.  

The evapotranspiration rate for the seven day period between July 12-18 was 1.50 inches, calculated for cool season turfgrass in Gunnison.  During this time period, Gunnison received .02 inches of precipitation.  So, watering 1.48 inches will replace the amount of moisture that has been lost through plant transpiration and evaporation from soil during the past week and needs to be replaced to maintain a healthy lawn. 

This is meant to be a general guide to determining your lawn’s irrigation needs.  Please note that micro-climates in your yard and various grass species in your lawn will have considerable effect on your lawn’s actual water needs, so be sure to check soil moisture to a depth of 4-8” with a garden trowel or screwdriver to determine if the root zone of your grass is sufficiently moist.

How do I figure out how long to water my lawn in order to apply the correct amount of water?  Visit this link: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/264-Minute2Inch.html

For more about conserving water through efficient irrigation scheduling, visit: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/265-Scheduling.html

For assistance in establishing an efficient irrigation schedule for your lawn, contact the CSU Extension Office in Gunnison County at 641-1260.